Aarhus, Denmark
June 15, 2023
I watched the approaching city from my usual perch. Beyond the architectural atrocities around the port, a charming village came to view.
This was the perfect spot to watch it arrive. The Crows Nest lounge is typically packed. But early each morning, while the ship still sleeps, any seat can be had above the bow.
At the highest point on the front of the boat, it’s the best spot to see what’s coming…or to reflect daily on where we’ve been.
From this chair much drivel’s spilled on to these posts. It’s now time for a few more drops.
This is our third docking on Danish soil. But it’s our first without being confined to an island.
Above us was a ceiling we’d yet to see. This was the first day with cloud cover. But it was high, and unthreatening.
For a few minutes this morning, they dropped some sprinkles. Having exhausted their ammo, they slowly dispersed, and went away. The field being clear, the sun regained its accustomed ground.
We’re in the self-deprecating city of Aarhus, which (like Chicago without the gunfire) refers to itself as “the second city” of Denmark. It was founded around 800 as one of first Viking cities in this area.
The largest port in the country sits 120 miles west of Copenhagen, on the east coast of Jutland. As home to the largest university in Scandinavia, it’s long been a cultural haven.
At the port we met Karl, our guide for the day. He came to Aarhus for college in 1969, and has been here since.
His love for the city showed, as did his knowledge. Our discussion started at the docks, which would ordinarily seem dull. But at the water’s edge, Aarhus was interesting.
Several sculptures honoring pre-industrial dockworkers loading bags and hauling freight included the artist himself taking a break on a bench. It’s a moving homage to a (hard) way of life that sustained much of this city before innovation took over.
Karl pointed across the water, to the modernist monstrosities that made me recoil as we headed into the harbor.
Aarhus Ø (Aarhus East) is the new part of the city, mostly constructed the last few years. Its most distinctive structures are “the Iceberg”.
These are a technologically impressive yet aesthetically revolting pile that, with the nearby “Lighthouse” tower, dominates the island at the entrance to Aarhus.
Around the canal from the dockworker statues, a superficially banal building captured our attention. But inside it, we found Aarhus growing from the top down.
Dokk 1 on the waterfront includes the public library and culture center. From its ceiling “Magic Mushrooms”…a fantasy city of skyscrapers, schools, and stadiums…dangles upside down.
On either side of this inverted metropolis is one of the world’s more ingenious parking systems. Cars enter and are left in large lifts. A machine accepts payment and dispenses a ticket.
The car is then taken by mobile platforms and moving floors to an open parking space. When the driver returns, he scans his ticket and the car returns to the lift where it was left.
Across the street we went back in time. The tasteful Custom House dates from 1897, and sits on the old edge of the docks before this part of the harbor was filled.
Designed by Danish architect Hack Kampmann, the Belle Époque era brick façade includes the Aarhus coat of arms, featuring images of St. Paul and St Clement, the patron of seaman and of this city.
Kampmann also designed the largest provincial theater in Denmark, where we went next. The Aarhus Theater is of Art Nouveau style, graced with influences of classic Greek and French theater. A scene from Maskarade, Denmark’s unofficial national opera, fills the pediment.
Across the plaza stands an equestrian statue of King Christian X. Christian reigned in the early 20th century. He became a symbol of Danish defiance during the Second World War by riding his horse around Copenhagen to show no fear of occupying Germans.
The sculpture depicts the king on a Jutland steed, balancing motion with stability while providing equal prominence to rider and horse.
Looming behind this monument of the king is a shrine to a saint. Construction on St Clements Cathedral started in 1192 and, like many Medieval cathedrals, continued thru subsequent centuries. It’s the longest (305 ft) and tallest (315 ft) church in the country.
The original Romanesque design intended two towers, but not the middle one there now. Black Plague interrupted construction, which resumed after 1400 in gothic style with the current tower.
Despite the ravages of the “reformation”, touches of beauty remain within.
The Baroque altar is magnificent, featuring movable sections offering different scenes throughout the Liturgical year. Somehow, it survived the upheavals of the 16th century, descending to us as a wonderful heirloom of a tumultuous age.
The baptismal font is also fantastic. Supported by the four evangelists, but with the animal head by which each is symbolized, the vessel features four reliefs from the life of Christ.
A commendable effort is underway to revive and restore 15th century wall frescoes and vault paintings buried under Protestant whitewashing. Unfortunately, many are forever lost. But this basilica preserves more than any church in Denmark.
A few blocks away, past the luxurious Hotel Royal, are the narrow alleys and cobbled streets of the Latin Quarter. This fashionable district centers on Pustervig Torv, which etymologically honors the early blacksmiths who once worked outside the Viking city.
Till recently, the entire area was considered beyond the pale, and on the wrong side of the tracks. Early last century, it had devolved into a den of derelicts and a haven for hookers.
In the 1960s, as in many American cities, plans were developed to demolish the area and pave it for “transit”. Fortunately, a sensible voice arose from the Aarhus council, and saved the neighborhood from obliteration by “progress.”
The oldest part of Aarhus derives it’s modern name partly from the nearby academy for priests who were instructed in Latin.
But it was mostly inspired by visitors to Paris, who wanted to replicate in this degraded slum the artistic aura of La Rive Gauche.
They did a nice job. The streets are lively, filled with bustling cafés, fashionable boutiques, and high-end homes dating to the 16th century.
The next place we went is much older than that. The Dominican Church of Our Lady was initially established around 1060, likely conscripting a forgotten church from the Viking period.
The only evidence of that earlier edifice is an underground crypt discovered in the 1950s. We were disappointed that an event in the church would keep us from entering.
But Karl managed to get us in. The crypt was incredible. It’s the oldest stone church in Scandinavia, and is used for Mass once a week.
Over its altar is a replica of a crucifix found when the crypt was uncovered. The original dates from 1080, and is now kept in Copenhagen.
The crypt was beneath an eleventh century church initially named for St Nicholas, which was sensibly established outside the ramparts to not offend reigning Vikings.
For five hundred years it was manned by Dominicans. But after the “reformation” overran Denmark, the Monks were ordered to leave. By that time, the existence of the crypt was already forgotten.
After stepping from the crypt, we strolled down one of the oldest and loveliest alleys in Aarhus. Møllestien extends west to the middle of Møllegade square.
The cobblestone street dates at least to the twelfth century, and perhaps to the preceding Viking era. Along it are small quaint cottages covered in flowers, color…and cost.
According to Karl, one small bungalow of less than 1,000 square feet recently sold for almost two million dollars. We decided our money would be better spent on a late lunch.
We thanked Karl for his time and insights, then followed the Aarhus River toward the Latin Quarter. On the way, we discovered an array of restaurants along the river, and a waiting table beside the water.
Our feet rested, thirst quenched, and bellies full, we spent the rest of the day strolling and sampling the Latin Quarter…compiling final fond memories of the Second City.
JD